Japan Story #1: Chiiori Trust

I lived in Japan with Mike, Dan and Dave.  Three Americans both completely obsessed with Japanese culture.

One night we were out drinking, and Dave told me about a book both him and mike read.  It was about a guy who came to Japan in the 1970’s and bought this house in the middle of Shikoku in Iya Valley.  It was purchased by Alex Kerr, and he wrote a book about Japan, which is known as one of the quintessential travel books for Japan.

Dave and Mike wondered if the house was still there, and if anyone was still living there.  They had looked on the internet and come up with a few things, but nothing solid.  I thought this was a great idea, and that we should go IMMEDIATELY. I pushed this view to the point of complete annoyance.  But that is beside the point.  We went to Iya in search of Alex Kerr’s house.

The day started with a 2 hour road trip into Tokushima prefecture.  We saw the vine bridge and some other really weird Hell Cave.  After seeing all this we decided to head north more, both to get out of the touristy area and perhaps stumble on Alex’s house.

As we drove around and began to get lost, we stumbled on a clue.  A little wooden sign pointing up a small mountain road which simply said “Alex’s House”.  Fair enough, we head up the mountain in Mike’s Suzuki.  The road twisted and turned and we finally came to a parking spot with the same wooden sign.

We talked to one of the local mountain folk.  But I don’t think Mike could understand his accent too much, but he pointed us in the way of the house.

We finally came to the house.  It was a beautiful thatch house overlooking the valley.  No one was there.  Or was there?

As we started to look around, we saw evidence that people were living there.  A compost heap, the door was left wide open and fresh veggies were stacked in the kitchen.  Someone had to be living here, but who? Alex Kerr?  Some Japanese guy that bought the house off him?

We left a note in English and in Japanese explaining that we wished to stay at the house as it was one of the most beautiful places we have seen and we knew all about the story of Alex Kerr coming to Iya Valley to escape the busy and crazy world of Japan’s urban life. We left the note and headed back home.

Later that week, we received a call from a English girl explaining what was really going on and we spent a weekend volunteering at Chiiori Trust and cutting thatch and repairing things.  It has to be one of the most secluded and beautiful places I have ever been.

Mike still continues to visit Chiiori and help out.  He went up for new years this year.  Every time I look at that house it hits me in the gut with a sense of nostalgia.  What a place, and what a cool idea to maintain the dream a young man had almost 40 years ago.

Good luck to everyone in Chiiori and best of luck in the New Year.  That place is a-mazing.

Here is a good video I found that just shows what it is like around Chiiori, inside and outside of the house: